1. Dog
2. Training area
3. Non-slip, comfortable shoes (for you, not the dog)
4. Training collar
5. Training lead
Dog
This probably sounds silly, doesn't it? Of course you have a dog! But...do you have a healthy dog? Make sure your dog is up-to-date on vaccinations and has been checked for heartworms and internal parasites. You want your dog in tip-top physical condition before you begin. You also need an up-to-date county dog license.
Does age matter? Your dog needs to be at least 8 weeks old, 12 weeks is even better. There is no upper age limit. I've seen trainers have success with dogs well into their teens. You can indeed teach an old dog new tricks.
Training Area
This was already covered in an earlier post.
Non-Slip, Comfortable Shoes
You are going to be walking, running, stopping, and turning. Make sure your shoes are comfortable and have a no-slip bottom. This is not a fashion show; this is form over function. There is nothing better than a pair of comfortable tennis shoes. Flip-flops, sandals, and high heels have no place in dog training.
Training Collar
Ah, not we come to the first area of debate: What kind of training collar should I use? There are multiple options on the market, and every dog trainer has their own opinion over which are best. Here are some options and my opinion on each. Take my experience for what it is worth and make your own decision.
One note before we begin: Your dog wears only one collar at a time; a training collar during training, and a buckle collar with his identification tags the rest of the time. The identification tags jingle during training and can give your dog unwanted signals, so that is why we switch collars during training time.
Choker Collar
I'm not going to side-step the name of this collar. It is a chain or nylon collar, outfitted with a ring on each end. The design is simple: It tightens around the dog's neck, causing discomfort. I have heart stories about tracheal damage and tracheal collapse as a result of these collars. I have never seen a case of tracheal collapse, but I have seen tracheal strain caused by pulling, either by the dog or handler. That's why I teach my handlers to use a loose leash and only 'pop' or provide a short jerk for correction.
I've seen hundreds, perhaps thousands, of people using these collars effectively. I don't have a problem with choker collars, provided they are used properly.
To put the choker collar on your dog, slide the chain or nylon through one of the rings, forming a loop. Facing your dog, form the collar into the letter 'P' (allowing the loose ring to dangle and form the leg of the letter) and slide the collar over your dog's head. This is important, as your dog will be working on your left side. The letter 'P' method allows the collar to loosen after it has been popped. If you put the collar on backwards, the collar will no loosen, and will matter of fact continue to tighten as you train, thus choking your dog. Attach your leash to the loose ring of the collar.
To size a choker collar, you size it to your dog's head and neck. Take your dog with you to the pet shop when you get the collar fitted. You want the collar loose enough that it slides over the dog's head to put it on without discomfort or ripping the dog's ears. You want the collar snug enough that it doesn't slide off over your dog's head if he should lower it.
Fixed or Buckle Collar
This is the traditional dog collar, usually made out of leather or nylon web. I have seen many people use these collars in training. It can prove to be troublesome if your dog is a puller, but we will address pulling in a later post. Some dogs outsmart their owners by pulling backwards and sliding their collar over their heads to escape. If this happens, try tightening the collar (but not so tight as to restrict breathing). If it continues, then I suggest switching to a choker collar. Remember, this collar must be free of identification tags or anything else that jingles.
Head Halters
This device is works on the same principle as a halter on a horse or other livestock. I have seen it used effectively, especially in dogs who like to pull or dogs that like to continuously sniff the ground. It also tends to curb aggression issues somewhat. If you purchase one of these, make sure you follow the fitting instructions on the box very carefully and/or have the employees at the pet shop assist you. The biggest drawback that I see to the head halter is that it can be difficult to wean a dog off of them to go back to using regular collars. Head halters are not approved for dog obedience competitions.
Harness
A harness can be particularly useful in dogs that have spinal damage, such as a pinched nerve. It can be problematic with dogs that like to pull, but, once again, we will address this problem in a different post. Harnesses, like head halters, are not approved for use in dog obedience competitions.
Prong Collar
Poor prong collars. The are constantly vilified. A prong collar has a small chain loop at the bottom of the collar; the rest of the collar is made up of prongs facing the dog's neck. Usually, these prongs are 'L' shaped. The idea of use is to apply the prongs to pressure points onto the back of the dog's neck, requiring the handler to use less force when making corrections. I have seen them used successfully in large dog/small owner situations. That being said, a prong collar should only be used under the supervision of a trained professional, and even then only for a limited time. They are very powerful and dogs are abused when they are used incorrectly.
Training Lead
You will be using two different training leads:
Six-Foot Leather Training Lead
When you enter the leash section of the pet store, you gaze upon rows of different leads. They come in a wide array of different colors and designs - it's a dog leash fashion show! Walk away. Yes, walk away from these pretty leashes. For one thing, they are 4 feet in length, and you need a 6-foot lead. For another thing, they are made out of nylon. If your dog pulls on the leash or you pop the lead to make a correction, those lovely leashes will slice your hands to ribbons! (Doesn't sound very pleasant, does it?)
When choosing a training lead, look for a 6-foot lead in the softest leather possible. (If you can't find them in the store, they are easily found online.) You don't need a wide lead, 1/2 - 7/8 inches is the perfect width. If you like, you can apply a leather conditioner such as mink oil to the leash and work the leash through your hands prior to using it in training. Leather leashes are great; they last a lifetime and get even more soft and pliable with age.
Long Line
The long line is used with stay and recall commands, as well as working toward off-leash training. You want a lead that is at least 20 feet in length, although 40 feet is better. You will find them available for purchase in cotton, nylon, and even leather. However, they can get a bit pricey.
I recommend that you make your own long line:
You will need a snap for your leash; these can be purchased at any hardware store of livestock supply. The other item you need to purchase is a clothesline. Look for a clothesline material like cotton that is a bit heavier - more like a thin, soft rope as opposed to a string. To make the long line, fasten the snap on one end with a good double knot. At the other end (40 feet), tie a loop, again using a double knot so it doesn't tighten on your hand. Voila! A long line at a portion of the cost.
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